THURSDAY, APRIL 6, 2023

ICONIC JAPANESE TRADITIONS

Waking up in Koyasan, we got up early for a morning prayer with the monks from the monastery. Waking up… I also was well aware of the fact that I had gotten very little sleep the night before, as as a mostly side-sleeper I just could not manage to get comfortable on the floor mat, and kept waking myself up wincing when I would change sleep positions. Not the world’s best start to the day, and while I was determined to make the most of it, I knew I had a tough overtired day ahead. But I was looking forward to the meditation and the chance to sit and reflect in a beautiful, meaningful setting with the Shingon Buddhist monks and their morning prayer.

As it turned out, at the 7am meditation it was 6pm the night before in New York, right in the heart of my family’s Passover seder, and I was really missing them. (I have a Very Large Family and our 40+ person annual Passover gathering at my uncle’s house has become an annual reunion that we all look forward to.) I had signed up for this trip knowing that I’d be missing it, and picked these dates to try to hit cherry blossom season, but it made for a homesick morning.

That said, during the prayer one of the monks handed out a sheet with the syllable transliteration of some of what they were chanting (the Hannya Sutra), along with the translation, and while primarily about the importance of the mind without hindrance, and the goal of “emptiness” in reaching enlightenment, I was struck by the message of hope for peace in the world that it strives to manifest, knowing that my family was saying such a similar sentiment at the seder at the same time.

The monks were chanting in a really hypnotic manner, each syllable with an equal weight in a monotone pitch, and it was easy to feel somewhat transported and mentally take a step back to think deeply about life. I couldn’t help but get a little choked up as I thought about my family, contemplated the similarities between so many of the world’s ancient religions (including how so much of this morning’s chanting reminded me of some Hebrew chanting), and recognized how we all ultimately want the same thing: peace, both inner and world.

After the meditation, we packed up and got back on the minibus for our 2-ish hour trip back to Kyoto. When we got there, we quickly dropped off our stuff at the hotel and then took taxis to Nishikikoji-dori, a covered shopping street, to have lunch. There was a ton of street food there, but I could see it was almost all seafood (or dessert), and I just didn’t have the energy to google translate every word. On the way I had spotted a KFC at the end of the street on the map, so snuck over there to have a bit of familiar food. I can’t actually remember the last time I had KFC in the US, so don’t really have a point of comparison, but it scratched the itch.

I re-met the group in the shopping street, then we got into taxis to head to WAK Japan, a little townhouse that offers cultural experiences to tourists. This afternoon we were going to get dressed up in kimonos and then experience a traditional tea ceremony.

Once we arrived, we took turns in small groups heading upstairs to choose our kimono and obi sash from a wall of folded options. The staff each helped us put on the many layers, including the obi that ties around the back in a beautiful, complicated knot. There were so many different colors and patterns to choose from! I sort of backed into my fabric, but I really loved it, especially with the pink patterned obi. Definitely brought out my inner child wanting to play dress-up, especially sifting through a box full of frilly flower hair accessories.

Once we were all dressed up, we put on some zori sandals and took a walk just down the street to a nearby shrine to take some pictures. When we got there it turns out there was a traditional wedding going on – fun to have a glimpse!

Back at the townhouse, we sat down in the main downstairs area to enjoy learning about a traditional Japanese tea ceremony. It’s a historic and timeless institution in Japan, coming originally from China, rooted in the principles of Zen Buddhism, and evolving into an artistic pursuit that provided a way for the rulers of Japan, elite warriors, and wealthy merchants to forge and reinforce social ties.

The ceremony is all about whisking and making matcha tea in a specific order with specific equipment, though the bowls, pot, whisk, and everything used is deliberately changed up for different guests.

It’s a whole thing, but some key elements are a lot of bowing, eating a sweet before drinking the tea, the guests admiring and complimenting the stoneware, and finally accepting the gift of the tea and expressing enjoyment.

The sweets they passed out were these very delicate wafers, and each of ours had a different flower painted and decorated on it. My hydrangea was so pretty!

Also, you think tea ceremony and naturally picture common tea bag tea, which is of course all over Japan, but this is a thicker green matcha powder liquid prepared with a small whisk. I happen to really like matcha, but it’s a strong flavor in this concentration. Totally different than expected, but part of an overall really fun experience.

After the ceremony, we got changed out of our kimonos and then headed back to the hotel to rest before a big group dinner.

Tonight was a special group dinner at Ganko Nijoen, a former townhouse overlooking a beautiful zen garden.

We were here for a kaiseki meal, which is a formal multi-course meal consisting of lots of little dishes. I was excited about the overall quintessentially Japanese experience, but I knew it would be a lot of food I wouldn’t eat. No problem, but I was worried about the wastefulness and rudeness, and talked to Maho who assured me that the restaurant wouldn’t be offended.

So relieved, I sat down to enjoy the evening.

It was starting to rain so we didn’t really go out to explore the garden, but could see through the window that it was a really beautiful space.

I was right that this was a whole lot of seafood and out of my comfort zone dishes, but it was all really beautiful, and I was able to find some vegetarian bites here and there. How cute is that tiny origami crane under each glass!

Photos by Maho

The main event at dinner was that we’d be dining with a Maiko, a trainee Geisha. Emma was very excited. 😂

And rightfully so! She really was stunning, between her beautiful kimono and elaborate obe, flawless makeup and hair, and graceful performance. Such a treat.

After her performance, the courses kept coming as we socialized with her (thanks to Maho translating) and ended up having such a fun night! Definitely one of the most memorable from the trip.